Friday, October 26, 2012

Herbst

Herbst is the German word for autumn, and I have to say that it is beautiful.

Normally I love the fall, and this year is especially amazing.  Because our town of Zolling is a few kilometers from where we work (too far to bike, unfortunately), we drive to work every day.  This has given us the chance to enjoy the amazing countryside here.  The fall color is beautiful.  Each morning we get to see the sun rise over fields and over the church towers in Freising.  Last week's sunrise was especially beautiful, but hard to capture in pictures.  We drive through bucolic villages (if you can call them that--they're pretty small), past pretty churches and fields, and enjoy the the fields and forests along the route.

The other day there is a wind blowing all the city smog and haze (there isn't much--Munich is pretty green) away.  This is called the Foehn (hairdryer), and the result is that we have amazing views of the Alps on our drive.

Here are some pictures to get you an idea of what it's like here.


This is the edge of town in Freising on the way to school.

 Then we drive through fields with views like this on a country highway.

We come through the little village of Grosseisenbach.  It's got this great little church.

Fall color

Bavaria (Bayern in German) is the largest German state.  It is largely Catholic, and these little roadside shrines are on major roads, in towns (there is one at the corner by our house and another at each of the other three corners on that road), and on small rural lanes.  This one is at a major crossroads.

The back way home also offers amazing views.

This is a "town" of a dozen homes or so.  Note the narrow road through town.

These are the church spires of Freising.  We get this sunrise regularly.

Tuesday, October 9, 2012

Oktoberfest

Yep, it's that time of year!

Now, if you're like most Americans, you probably have a few ideas about Oktoberfest which may or may not be true.

1)  Oktoberfest is a big festival.

TRUE

Oktoberfest is, first and foremost, a "Volksfest" (folk festival)--in fact, it is the largest in the world.  It is a carnival--meaning it's great for kids!  It has booths, games, rides, etc.  I went on 2 of the 3 major roller coasters and the "70s Adventure," but for financial reasons I skipped the games, ferris wheel, haunted houses, and the spinning rides.  I skipped the pony rides, too.

2)  Oktoberfest is celebrated in October.

FALSE

Oktoberfest spans 16 days most of the time.  It ends the first Sunday in October, which this year fell on  the 7th--the latest day it would ever run.  It starts 2 weeks before that on Saturday at noon (this year on Sept. 22).  This means there are THREE weekends you can attend as well as weekdays if you aren't working.  The only exception is if the first Monday or Tuesday happens to be October 3rd, which is the German national holiday (sort of like our Fourth of July).  Since people have that day off, Oktoberfest is extended by 1-2 days on those years.  Basically most of Oktoberfest is celebrated in September.


3)  It's all about brats and sauerkraut.

FALSE

You can certainly buy both, but the traditional food at Oktoberfest is roast chicken!  Typically they serve 1/2 chicken ("halbes Haenchen," a common food in Germany, is called a "Hendl" at Oktoberfest), and the traditional side item is a potato salad.  Also common are pork knuckle ("Schweinshaxn"--this is more likely to be served with sauerkraut) and large pretzels ("Brezn"), which really fill you up.  At the booths you can also buy finger foots, including wurst, fries, onion rings, sandwiches, candy, chocolate covered fruit, and more.


4) Everyone wears lederhosen.

MOSTLY TRUE

It is incredibly common for people to show up in Trachten, or traditional Bavarian dress.  This means the men wear Lederhosen, or suede leather pants that come to either just above or just below the knee.  They are worn with wool socks or just calf socks.  The pants have suspenders, and you typically wear a checked button down collared shirt underneath.  The most common is red/white checked, but blue/white is also popular.  Purple/white, green/white, and plain white also appear.  Hats (adorned with feathers, goat hair, etc) are traditional, as are wool coats of varying kinds.  The younger crowd is less likely to wear these extras, though.  Be sure to pronounce it correctly, whatever you choose to wear.  It's LAY-der-hoe-zen, not LEE-der-hoe-zen!

Women can buy Lederhosen as well (just make sure you buy from the women's section so they fit right!), but more common is the Dirndl.  This traditional dress is pretty amazing because I have yet to see two alike.  It is worn with a blouse underneath (which only adds to the variety as you buy this separately), a necklace of some kind, and an apron.  Some have a laced up bodice in the front with ribbon or chain, others don't.  They should always come below the knees, though many tourists and teenagers buy shorter ones.  You can buy a waistcoat or a shawl or even a matching hat with it.  Lacy socks are also an option.  What is really important, however, is the apron.  The strings are wrapped around the waist and tied in the appropriate place.  Single women tie the apron on the left, while married or taken women tie them on the right.  Only little girls tie the apron in the middle, and widows and waitresses tie in the back.  People do actually observe this tradition, so make sure you don't get it wrong!  As a side note, you should know that it's virtually impossible to look bad in a Dirndl--if you get the right one, you are guaranteed to look good!

It is entirely acceptable to go in normal clothes, and many people do.  Feel free to buy a Dirndl or a pair of Lederhosen if you come, but if the price tag gets to you, come in jeans and a sweatshirt.  You won't look out of place.  Just be sure, whatever you decide, that you wear comfortable shoes for all the walking, dancing, and riding rides!


Yes, I have a dirndl, too.


5)  Oktoberfest is a typically German thing

FALSE

Oktoberfest was around before Germany was a country, and it's a typically Bavarian thing, and more specifically, a Munich thing.  Bavaria is the southernmost state in Germany, and it joined the country a bit later.  It's always had a bit of an "independent" thing, and Germans (including Bavarians) often joke about it not being a part of Germany.  The Trachten described above are traditional Bavarian clothes not worn in the rest of Germany.  Sure, other cities host Oktoberfest festivals--mostly because tourists expect it and Germans love an excuse to throw a party--but it really is a Munich thing.


Just for your viewing pleasure, this is the city hall building at the Marienplatz, the main square in Munich.  It is not actually part of the Oktoberfest.


And a bit of history (because I can't help myself):

Oktoberfest started in 1810 as a celebration of the marriage of King Ludwig I and Theresa.  It was originally held outside of Munich, but it now takes place on the Theresienwiese ("Festwiese" or, as the locals call it, "Wies'n") in the heart of Munich--just a short walk from the central train station.  While it has already celebrated the 200th anniversary, it has not taken place 200 times (cancellations due to wars, cholera outbreaks, etc. have happened over 20 times).   

There are 14 large tents (they are actually semi-permanent structures), each holding between 1,000 and 10,000 people at a time.  There are tables inside and outside--the only places to get a sit-down meal.  They typically have a live music program of some kind, and the music varies by tent.  In the mornings and afternoons you hear more old-school, brass band "oompah" music, sometimes interspersed with something else of the old-school/traditional variety.  As the night moves on, you're more likely to hear songs you know.  You'll hear English language rock songs (John Denver's Country Roads is a classic, but we also heard Neil Diamond, ACDC, the Village People, and more) mixed with German pop/rock, and mostly Schlager--German 70s type songs that everyone knows.  When the fun music comes on, you stand on your bench and sing or dance along.  Certain tents have more German music, while others have more heavy rock.  You're bound to have fun either way, though--if you can get in.  You can't get in on Saturday without long waits, though.  Saturday is instead a great opportunity to enjoy the rides, the games, and more.


If you plan ahead, you can absolutely fit right in.  It's a fun experience for all, and I highly recommend a trip!